Calculadora planificadora de jubilación

Enter eight pieces of information to get your projection:

‍1. Current age. Where the projection starts.

‍2. Age at retirement. The default is 67, the full retirement age for Social Security if you were born in 1960 or later, but you can move it earlier or later to see the trade-off.

‍3. Annual household income. This drives both your savings dollars and the calculator's Social Security estimate, which is calculated on a sliding scale based on income.

‍4. Percent of income to save. The single input you control most directly: moving it a few points changes the outcome more than almost anything else on this list.

‍5. Current retirement savings. Your starting balance across whatever accounts you're counting: 401(k), IRA, brokerage, or a combination.

‍6. Expected annual income increase. A conservative raise assumption, since it compounds along with your contributions if you're saving a percentage of pay.

‍7. Pre-retirement income desired in retirement. Often called a replacement ratio. The calculator defaults to 90%, on the high end of the 70–90% range most planners use, so lower it if you expect your expenses to actually drop in retirement.

‍8. Years of retirement income. How many years your money needs to last. This is where longevity risk enters the picture.

A second, collapsed panel lets you adjust the assumptions doing the real work behind the projection: your expected rate of return before retirement, your expected return in retirement, the inflation rate, and whether to include Social Security and a non-working spouse. The default is 7% pre-retirement growth, 4% in retirement, and 3% inflation, with Social Security included and calculated up to, but not over, the program maximum. Change any one of these and the chart redraws instantly, which makes it a fast way to stress-test a plan rather than just generate one number.

Most people ask how much they need to retire as if it has one answer. It doesn't. What actually matters is whether your money lasts as long as you do, and that depends on your spending, not just your balance. A $600,000 account supports a very different retirement for someone spending $30,000 a year than for someone spending $70,000.

That's why this calculator centers on a replacement ratio instead of a target number. Aiming to replace 70-90% of your pre-retirement income is a reasonable starting range, since some costs (commuting, retirement account contributions, payroll taxes) drop off once you stop working, while others (healthcare, travel) often rise. Run the calculator at a few different replacement ratios before you settle on one; the gap between 70% and 90% is usually the difference between comfortable and tight.

If the result surprises you, that's worth a conversation, not a panic. A certified Credit.org counselor can look at your whole budget, not just the retirement inputs, and help you find room to save, deal with debt that's competing with your contributions, or both. You can schedule a free counseling session here.

A handful of inputs do most of the work in any retirement projection. Understanding them helps you read your own estimate instead of just taking the final chart at face value.

Your Savings Rate
‍This is the input you control most directly, and over 20 or 30 years, small changes compound into a large gap. Going from saving 8% of your income to 12% rarely feels dramatic month to month, but it can move your projected “run-out age” by a decade or more, depending on how many years you have left to save.

Your Savings Rate
‍This is the input you control most directly, and over 20 or 30 years, small changes compound into a large gap. Going from saving 8% of your income to 12% rarely feels dramatic month to month, but it can move your projected “run-out age” by a decade or more, depending on how many years you have left to save.

Your Expected Rate of Return
‍Markets rise and fall year to year, and the calculator's flat annual return is a simplification. A figure in the 5-7% range is a reasonable long-run planning assumption for a diversified account, but it's an average across good years and bad ones, not a guarantee. Run a lower number too, and if your plan still holds up at a more conservative rate, you've built in some cushion.

‍Inflation and Your Income Growth
‍Inflation quietly erodes purchasing power on both sides of the projection: it raises your future expenses and, if left unadjusted, makes your future dollars worth less than they look on the chart. The 3% default is a reasonable long-run planning figure. Pair it with a realistic income growth assumption, since a raise that doesn't keep pace with inflation isn't actually growing your saving power.

‍Social Security's Role
‍The calculator estimates your benefit on a sliding scale tied to your income, and includes a non-working spouse's benefit if you add one, capped at the program maximum. That estimate is a planning approximation, not your actual benefit. See the section below for how to get the real number.

‍How Long Your Money Needs to Last
‍This is longevity risk, and it's easy to underestimate. Planning for 25 years of retirement income when you end up needing 35 is a much bigger problem than planning for 35 and only needing 25. If you have a family history of longevity, or you're retiring early, it's worth running the calculator with a higher number of years than you expect to need.

If your projection shows a gap, contributing more is often the first lever to pull, and the IRS raised contribution limits for 2026:
- 401(k), 403(b), most 457 plans, and the federal TSP: employee deferrals rise to $24,500, up from $23,500 in 2025.
- Catch-up contributions (age 50+): $8,000, up from $7,500, for a combined limit of $32,500.
- Enhanced catch-up (ages 60-63, under SECURE 2.0): $11,250, for a combined limit of $35,750.
- Traditional and Roth IRAs: the contribution limit rises to $7,500, up from $7,000.
- IRA catch-up contributions (age 50+): $1,100, up from $1,000, for a combined limit of $8,600.

Traditional IRA deductibility and Roth IRA eligibility both phase out at higher incomes. For 2026, a single filer covered by a workplace plan loses the traditional IRA deduction between $81,000 and $91,000 of income, and Roth eligibility phases out between $153,000 and $168,000. Married couples filing jointly should check the current thresholds directly, since they depend on which spouse is covered by a workplace plan.

If you're 50 or older, the catch-up room is worth entering into the calculator's “percent of income to save” field as an actual dollar target rather than rounding down. The gap between the standard and catch-up limits is often the difference between a plan that works and one that's close.

Full retirement age is 67 for anyone born in 1960 or later. If you were born between 1955 and 1959, your full retirement age falls somewhere between 66 and 66 years, 10 months, depending on your exact birth year. Claiming before full retirement age permanently reduces your monthly benefit; waiting past it, up to age 70, permanently increases it.

For 2026, Social Security benefits increased by a 2.8% cost-of-living adjustment, and the maximum amount of earnings subject to Social Security tax rose to $184,500.

The calculator's Social Security figure is a planning estimate based on the income you enter, not your actual earnings record. Your real number can differ, sometimes significantly, especially if your income has varied over your career. Before you rely on a retirement plan, pull your actual estimate from your Social Security statement at ssa.gov, and if you want help reading it, a Credit.org counselor can walk through it with you.

Credit.org offers both, and they answer different questions. The retirement income calculator is the faster tool: give it your contributions, an expected rate of return, and your time horizon, and it estimates the monthly income your savings could produce. Use it when you want a quick, single-number estimate.

This retirement planner calculator goes further. It projects your account balance year by year through a retirement of whatever length you choose, factors in Social Security and a spouse's income if you have one, and tells you whether your money is projected to run out or hold up. Use this one when the real question isn't “what monthly income could I get,” but “will my savings actually last.”

- Using today's income instead of a realistic raise assumption, which understates how much a percentage-based savings rate actually contributes over time.
- Assuming a flat rate of return with no down years, which makes every projection look smoother than any real portfolio behaves.
- Ignoring inflation on the expense side, so the “enough” number on the chart is enough in today's dollars, not in the dollars you'll actually be spending.
- Guessing at a Social Security number instead of pulling the real estimate from your SSA statement, especially if your income has changed a lot over your career.
- Running the numbers once and filing them away. A projection made five years ago, before a job change or a market swing, isn't telling you much about today.

How much should I be saving for retirement?
‍It depends on your age, income, and how long you have left to save, which is exactly what this calculator is for. As a starting point, saving enough to capture any employer 401(k) match, then working toward 10-15% of your income including that match, is a reasonable target for someone with a couple of decades left to save. Run your own numbers rather than relying on a rule of thumb.

‍Does this calculator account for Social Security?
‍Yes. It estimates your benefit on a sliding scale based on the income you enter, up to the program maximum, and you can include a non-working spouse's benefit too. Toggle it off if you'd rather see a more conservative projection based on savings alone.

‍What rate of return should I use?
‍A figure in the 5-7% range is a reasonable long-run planning assumption for a diversified account, but it's an average across good years and bad ones, not a promise. Run a lower number too. If your plan still looks healthy at 5%, you've built in some cushion.

‍What happens if the calculator says my money runs out?
‍It means the current inputs don't cover the retirement you described, not that the plan is unfixable. The most common fixes are saving a higher percentage now, retiring a year or two later, or lowering the replacement-ratio target. A Credit.org counselor can help you decide which lever makes the most sense for your situation.

‍Should I include my spouse's income?
‍If you're married, yes, run it both ways. A non-working spouse can still qualify for a Social Security benefit based on your record, which the calculator factors in and caps at the program maximum, and household expenses in retirement are usually shared rather than separate.

‍Is this the same as working with a financial advisor?
‍No. This calculator gives you the math based on the assumptions you enter. It doesn't know whether an income-driven strategy makes sense for your specific accounts, whether you're carrying debt that should come first, or what your risk tolerance actually is. Those are conversations, not formulas, which is what a certified counselor is for.

‍How often should I recalculate?
‍Once a year is a reasonable habit, and always after a job change, a significant raise, or a market swing large enough that your account balance looks noticeably different from what you last entered.

A projection from this calculator is a starting point, not a plan. A certified Credit.org counselor can walk through your numbers with you, help you decide how much to save versus how much to put toward debt, and make sense of your Social Security estimate. Schedule your free appointment or call 800-431-8157. Our counselors are nonprofit, unbiased, and don't sell investment or insurance products.

Related reading: 401(k) Savings Calculator | Retirement Income Calculator | Savings Goals Calculator